This was a question that was sent to our exotics veterinarian where I work.
I have a flock of backyard chickens that are having problems. I recently introduced a new bird to the flock and soon after the egg production dropped, they have gone off their feed and their feathers are messed up. When I looked at the birds I saw lots of dark specks running around on their skin. What is the problem with them and how do I fix it so they start laying eggs again?
It sounds like your hens may have encountered a parasite problem. Those “fast-moving specks” might very well be mites. These external parasites suck the blood of their host and are common in poultry. Affected birds will often lose their appetite, look scruffy and have a drop in their egg production due to anemia from blood loss. Mites can also make the chickens more susceptible to other diseases. Your local avian veterinarian can confirm this diagnosis by examining those “specks” under a microscope as well as examining your birds for other health problems.
The key to treatment involves treating both the birds and their environment at the same time. The parasites will attack the birds to feed but often are found hiding in cool, dark areas of the hen house or in the bedding. After removing any bedding and eggs, dust both the birds and the ground with a poultry-safe insecticide powder such as ‘Sevin’ which contains 5% Carbaryl. It is important to follow the directions on the label when using insecticide powders for your safety and that of your birds. At the same time scrub all surfaces of the hen house with hot soapy water followed by a dilute 1:10 bleach solution (9 parts water to one part full-strength bleach) to eliminate the mites and their eggs. Let in as much sunlight in as you can while cleaning as this will also help kill the parasites. Replace all bedding material each time you clean. Allow the hen house to air out between applications. Since the life cycle of the parasites takes a week, you will probably need to do several weekly treatments to eradicate the pests. Don’t forget that you should not eat any eggs for a week after treating the chickens with insecticide.
Please note that you can also use an organic parasite control, diatomaceous earth, to reduce future mite problems in your chicken yard. These products are available from your farm/feed store or by consulting your agricultural extension agent. Follow the instructions on the labels for all products. Finally, your local avian veterinarian can be a very helpful source of advice for the proper husbandry of your chickens.
Thursday, December 29, 2011
Monday, December 26, 2011
Adjusting your Dog to a New Baby
Having a baby is very exciting and is a time and something you have to prepare for in many ways. A lot of clients come to me, anxious about how their dog will do once they bring the baby home. A few have been worried that the dog may physically harm the baby. It is impossible to know how your dog will react to the change. Dogs vary tremendously in how they will respond to a new member of the household, especially a baby. You can help him accept the new baby by taking a few steps.
To minimize your dog's stress when the baby comes, try to start making any anticipated changes to his routine ahead of time. Since the baby isn't due for a month, you still have time.
If his daily exercise is about to change from long walks to being let out in the yard, start making this transition now. Have you thought about which rooms he will not have access to once the baby is here? If you plan to limit his ability to roam the house, start using baby gates and other barriers now so he is gets used to them. This is also a great time to give him a short refresher course on basic commands such as "come," "sit,'' "down" and "stay."
After your baby is born and mom and baby are still at the hospital, have someone bring home a few objects such as a blanket and used diaper. This will help him get used to the baby's scent. If you are concerned your dog may jump on you when you first come home, have someone else hold the baby when you walk in the door. This will allow your dog to happily greet you while keeping the baby safe.
Once the baby is home and everyone is settling in, set absolute rules that they are not together unsupervised. Give him lots of attention and praise for being calm with the baby. If he is too aroused and you are afraid he will try to jump or bite, use a leash and/or muzzle to help control his actions. Avoid interactions when the baby is crying or waving arms and legs as these actions could elicit a playful or predatory response. Try your best to still give him quality time away from the baby.
With some careful planning now and patience once the baby is home, your dog should and child will become best friends.
To minimize your dog's stress when the baby comes, try to start making any anticipated changes to his routine ahead of time. Since the baby isn't due for a month, you still have time.
If his daily exercise is about to change from long walks to being let out in the yard, start making this transition now. Have you thought about which rooms he will not have access to once the baby is here? If you plan to limit his ability to roam the house, start using baby gates and other barriers now so he is gets used to them. This is also a great time to give him a short refresher course on basic commands such as "come," "sit,'' "down" and "stay."
After your baby is born and mom and baby are still at the hospital, have someone bring home a few objects such as a blanket and used diaper. This will help him get used to the baby's scent. If you are concerned your dog may jump on you when you first come home, have someone else hold the baby when you walk in the door. This will allow your dog to happily greet you while keeping the baby safe.
Once the baby is home and everyone is settling in, set absolute rules that they are not together unsupervised. Give him lots of attention and praise for being calm with the baby. If he is too aroused and you are afraid he will try to jump or bite, use a leash and/or muzzle to help control his actions. Avoid interactions when the baby is crying or waving arms and legs as these actions could elicit a playful or predatory response. Try your best to still give him quality time away from the baby.
With some careful planning now and patience once the baby is home, your dog should and child will become best friends.
Tuesday, December 13, 2011
Housetraining Help!
Are you still struggling with house training, even though your puppy has been home for several months? Does it seem like they were understanding the routine at first but now are having accidents in the house? Here are some tips that might help!
Unfortunately, some puppies are slower to get with the housebreaking program than others. When cleaning up accidents in the house, make sure to use an enzyme type cleaner that will get rid of any lingering scent that could be attracting her to the area. If possible limit her access to room she has been using as her bathroom.
Before you blame her problem on behavior, have your veterinarian make sure she doesn’t have a urinary tract infection that is causing her to urinate more frequently. If this test comes back fine, you’ll need to back up and restart your training.
The Basics:
Restrict her to a small area (crate or small pen) when you can’t supervise her. Carry her outside to the designated potty area immediately after you let her out of the crate and after she eats or drinks. Also do this after she wakes up from a nap and after she has been playing, as she’ll likely need to go. Tethering is another method that allows you to always keep an eye on her and catch any signal she gives before she is about to urinate. This involves attaching her to your belt loop with a 6-foot lead, thus keeping her at your side as you move around the house. With her tethered to you, as soon as you notice her starting to sniff or circle or squat, quickly lift her up to take her outside. After she urinates outside, praise her and give her a treat for being a good girl. A designated outdoor potty area with a soiled rag or paper can also help, as she will be attracted to her own scent. This has to be a team effort, with everyone in the house being consistent with the housetraining.
With repetition on your part and positive reinforcement for her actions, she should start to learn. At her age, she should be able to hold her urine for at least 6 hours. As you know, reprimanding her after you find an accident doesn’t do any good, just clean it up. Have patience and she should eventually catch on.
Unfortunately, some puppies are slower to get with the housebreaking program than others. When cleaning up accidents in the house, make sure to use an enzyme type cleaner that will get rid of any lingering scent that could be attracting her to the area. If possible limit her access to room she has been using as her bathroom.
Before you blame her problem on behavior, have your veterinarian make sure she doesn’t have a urinary tract infection that is causing her to urinate more frequently. If this test comes back fine, you’ll need to back up and restart your training.
The Basics:
Restrict her to a small area (crate or small pen) when you can’t supervise her. Carry her outside to the designated potty area immediately after you let her out of the crate and after she eats or drinks. Also do this after she wakes up from a nap and after she has been playing, as she’ll likely need to go. Tethering is another method that allows you to always keep an eye on her and catch any signal she gives before she is about to urinate. This involves attaching her to your belt loop with a 6-foot lead, thus keeping her at your side as you move around the house. With her tethered to you, as soon as you notice her starting to sniff or circle or squat, quickly lift her up to take her outside. After she urinates outside, praise her and give her a treat for being a good girl. A designated outdoor potty area with a soiled rag or paper can also help, as she will be attracted to her own scent. This has to be a team effort, with everyone in the house being consistent with the housetraining.
With repetition on your part and positive reinforcement for her actions, she should start to learn. At her age, she should be able to hold her urine for at least 6 hours. As you know, reprimanding her after you find an accident doesn’t do any good, just clean it up. Have patience and she should eventually catch on.
Monday, December 5, 2011
Maryland Making Strides to Prevent Antifreeze Related Deaths in Pets
Antifreeze (ethylene glycol) is a freeze preventive used in engines and other heat transfer applications, such as HVAC chillers and solar water heaters. It is a common substance to have in garages this time of year. The problem with traditional antifreeze is that it is attractive to pets because it has a very sweet taste but only a small amount is needed to kill an animal.
After ingestion, antifreeze is quickly absorbed from the stomach tract; in dogs, this occurs within 3 hours. As the substance is broken down in the body, reactions in the liver and kidneys can cause severe damage to the body.
If your pet ingests antifreeze, the onset of signs is almost immediate and resembles alcohol (ethanol) intoxication. Dogs and cats vomit due to irritation of the stomach and intestines, drink more water, urinate more often and have neurologic signs. You may notice your pet stumbling, falling over, or having slow reflexes. As the central nervous system begins to slow down, cats and dogs drink less but the kidneys continue to produce more urine, resulting in severe dehydration. Renal failure usually develops between 12 and 24 hours in a cat and 36 and 72 hours in a dog.
Diagnosis can be difficult if someone did not witness ingestion and because many other things can look the same as antifreeze toxicity. Within 3 hours of ingestion, there are significant changes on bloodwork and in the urine that can help a veterinarian diagnose ethylene glycol toxicity. One of the most common changes is the presense of calcium oxalate crystals forming in the urine. These can be seen as early as 3 and 6 hours after ingestion in cats and dogs, respectively. Commercial test kits are also helpful in detecting blood concentrations.
The prognosis after ingestion varies based on the amount of time that elapses between ingestion and initiation of treatment. The goal of treatment is to decrease absorption of the antifreeze and increase excretion out of the body. If ingestion has been recent, your veterinarian will be able to induce vomiting and give activated charcoal to prevent further absorption. If hours have passed between ingestion of antifreeze and your veterinarian being able to treat the pet, prognosis for survival is poor.
Effective January 1, a new Maryland law will require a bitter-tasting additive be put in antifreeze. The law was pushed by Lynne Gillis, from Huntingtown, MD, who testified at a legislative hearing last winter about her hound-mix dog, Nikko, who died after ingesting antifreeze. Unfortunately Nikko did not survive the poisoning, but the law hopes to prevent other deaths. The Maryland Antifreeze Bittering Agent Act, which requires retailers to stock engine coolants with the additive denatonium benzoate, was to begin Oct. 1, but lawmakers agreed to a later date to allow retailers to clear their inventory.
After ingestion, antifreeze is quickly absorbed from the stomach tract; in dogs, this occurs within 3 hours. As the substance is broken down in the body, reactions in the liver and kidneys can cause severe damage to the body.
If your pet ingests antifreeze, the onset of signs is almost immediate and resembles alcohol (ethanol) intoxication. Dogs and cats vomit due to irritation of the stomach and intestines, drink more water, urinate more often and have neurologic signs. You may notice your pet stumbling, falling over, or having slow reflexes. As the central nervous system begins to slow down, cats and dogs drink less but the kidneys continue to produce more urine, resulting in severe dehydration. Renal failure usually develops between 12 and 24 hours in a cat and 36 and 72 hours in a dog.
Diagnosis can be difficult if someone did not witness ingestion and because many other things can look the same as antifreeze toxicity. Within 3 hours of ingestion, there are significant changes on bloodwork and in the urine that can help a veterinarian diagnose ethylene glycol toxicity. One of the most common changes is the presense of calcium oxalate crystals forming in the urine. These can be seen as early as 3 and 6 hours after ingestion in cats and dogs, respectively. Commercial test kits are also helpful in detecting blood concentrations.
The prognosis after ingestion varies based on the amount of time that elapses between ingestion and initiation of treatment. The goal of treatment is to decrease absorption of the antifreeze and increase excretion out of the body. If ingestion has been recent, your veterinarian will be able to induce vomiting and give activated charcoal to prevent further absorption. If hours have passed between ingestion of antifreeze and your veterinarian being able to treat the pet, prognosis for survival is poor.
Effective January 1, a new Maryland law will require a bitter-tasting additive be put in antifreeze. The law was pushed by Lynne Gillis, from Huntingtown, MD, who testified at a legislative hearing last winter about her hound-mix dog, Nikko, who died after ingesting antifreeze. Unfortunately Nikko did not survive the poisoning, but the law hopes to prevent other deaths. The Maryland Antifreeze Bittering Agent Act, which requires retailers to stock engine coolants with the additive denatonium benzoate, was to begin Oct. 1, but lawmakers agreed to a later date to allow retailers to clear their inventory.
Monday, October 31, 2011
American Diabetes Month- For Pets Too!
According to the American Diabetes Association, nearly 26 million children and adults in American are living with diabetes and another 79 million at high risk for developing type 2 diabetes. The disease is taking a devastating physical, emotional and financial toll on our country and it is affecting our pets too!
Diabetic pets require special attention and have specific medical needs, but can live healthy, long lives. If your pet has been recently diagnosed as diabetic, don't panic. Here are some information that can help.
Understanding Diabetes
Diabetes results from a decrease in insulin secretion from the beta cells of the pancreas and/or a decrease in insulin action. Insulin is produced by the pancreas, a small organ located in the abdomen. Insulin is made by the pancreatic islet cells (also called the beta cells), then secreted into the blood, where it travels throughout the body and helps regulate blood sugar. Glucose circulates in the blood and is available to all the cells as a source of energy. In order to be used for energy, glucose must get inside the cell. Insulin attaches to receptors on the cell, which in turn allows glucose to pass from the blood into the cell. It's like a key to a door: insulin is the key, and it must attach to the cell before glucose can get through the door and into the cell. Without insulin, glucose can not enter the cell. So the cell is "hungry" even though there are high levels of glucose in the blood.
There are 3 types of diabetes:
Type I: comparable to insulin dependent diabetes mellitus (IDDM) in humans. It results in low insulin concentrations with an impaired ability to secrete insulin after a glucose load. This means after a meal is eaten, the body is unable to put insulin into the blood to match up with glucose. This is the most common form of diabetes in dogs.
Type II: comparable to non-insulin dependent diabetes (NIDDM) in humans. It causes normal to high insulin concentrations with a decreased amount of insulin secreted after a glucose load. In other words, there is usually a high or normal amount of insulin circulating throughout the blood, except after a meal when insulin is needed to bind with glucose. Insulin is not always needed with this type of diabetes.
Type III: usually seen with hormonally-induced diabetes and is similar to impaired glucose tolerance (IGT) in humans. Hormones or medications can cause interference with insulin and cause glucose intolerance.
Understanding the difference between cats and dogs:
Cats: The most common causes of diabetes in cats include obesity, pancreatitis and a change in the pancreatic beta cells called amyloidosis. The onset of diabetes is usually middle age.
Dogs: This is most commonly an immune mediated disease with slow destruction of the beta cells. The progression occurs over time and usually 90% of the cells are lost before diabetes occurs. Other causes include genetic predisposition, chronic pancreatitis and medication-induced diabetes.
Breeds that are likely to develop diabetes include German Shepard dogs, Schnauzeers, Beagles, and Poodles. Golden Retrievers and Keshonds are more prone to juvenile diabetes.
Females are three times more likely to develop diabetes than males. Diabetes usually occurs around 6-9 years of age but can start earlier with juvenile diabetes.
What to look for:
Polyuria/Polydpsia (PU?PD): This means excessive urination and excessive thirst. The body eliminates excess blood glucose by filtering it through the kidneys and passing it into the urine. Water must be used to flush this excess glucose out of the body, and this is why you see excessive urine volume in a diabetic. Because so much water is being used to flush the excess glucose out of the body, the animal is thirsty and drinks a lot.
Polyphagia: This means excess hunger. Under these conditions, the body gets signals to start using stored fat and protein as energy sources. A diabetic animal often eats extra food because it is trying to supply its body with additional energy. But the food is not used efficiently, so even though the animal is eating a lot it is still losing weight.
Cataracts: 70% of dogs will develop cataracts in the first year to two years of diabetes. This is rare in cats.
Dropped hocks: Cats may develop a plantigrade stance where they appear to have dropped hind legs. This is directly related to the severity and duration of hyperglycemia. This may or may not improve with treatment.
If your veterinarian suspects that your cat or dog has diabetes, they will need to collect blood for analysis as well as an urine sample. Pets with diabetes also frequently develop urinary tract infections which can make managing the diabetes more difficult.
What is the treatment:
The number one cause of death in diabetic dogs and cats isn't the disease itself, but rather the owner's frustration with the disease. The goals of treatment are to eliminate the clinical signs of diabetes, prevent or slow progression of cataracts, prevent dangerous hypoglycemia, maintaining body weight and prevention of any other illness.
When your pet is diagnosed with diabetes, make sure you and your veterinarian take an appointment to talk about the following topics:
1. How to store insulin
2. How to give insulin
3. What types of food to feed and how often
4. How to recognize signs of hypoglycemia
5. How to react to hypoglycemia
Diet is a big part!
After your cat or dog is diagnosed with diabetes, he or she will need to go to twice-daily meal feeding. The reason for this is to ensure insulin is always given at the same time food is consumed. Your veterinarian will also recommend a specific diet for your pet. Diabetics require a special carbohydrates/fat/protein ratio. There are numerous prescription diets and a few regular brand foods that are appropriate. If you enjoy making your pet's food at home, there are recipes available and your veterinarian should be able to provide you with these.
The dose of insulin that your veterinarian starts your pet on will likely increase over the first year. After starting insulin or changing a dose, blood glucose curves must be obtained to monitor how the glucose levels drop and rise during the day. Your veterinarian will work with you to develop a plan to get your pet controlled. Diabetes is not a simple disease to manage, but once a patient is controlled they can remain well managed for years.
If you have questions or suspect your pet might be diabetic, speak to your veterinarian immediately.
Diabetic pets require special attention and have specific medical needs, but can live healthy, long lives. If your pet has been recently diagnosed as diabetic, don't panic. Here are some information that can help.
Understanding Diabetes
Diabetes results from a decrease in insulin secretion from the beta cells of the pancreas and/or a decrease in insulin action. Insulin is produced by the pancreas, a small organ located in the abdomen. Insulin is made by the pancreatic islet cells (also called the beta cells), then secreted into the blood, where it travels throughout the body and helps regulate blood sugar. Glucose circulates in the blood and is available to all the cells as a source of energy. In order to be used for energy, glucose must get inside the cell. Insulin attaches to receptors on the cell, which in turn allows glucose to pass from the blood into the cell. It's like a key to a door: insulin is the key, and it must attach to the cell before glucose can get through the door and into the cell. Without insulin, glucose can not enter the cell. So the cell is "hungry" even though there are high levels of glucose in the blood.
There are 3 types of diabetes:
Type I: comparable to insulin dependent diabetes mellitus (IDDM) in humans. It results in low insulin concentrations with an impaired ability to secrete insulin after a glucose load. This means after a meal is eaten, the body is unable to put insulin into the blood to match up with glucose. This is the most common form of diabetes in dogs.
Type II: comparable to non-insulin dependent diabetes (NIDDM) in humans. It causes normal to high insulin concentrations with a decreased amount of insulin secreted after a glucose load. In other words, there is usually a high or normal amount of insulin circulating throughout the blood, except after a meal when insulin is needed to bind with glucose. Insulin is not always needed with this type of diabetes.
Type III: usually seen with hormonally-induced diabetes and is similar to impaired glucose tolerance (IGT) in humans. Hormones or medications can cause interference with insulin and cause glucose intolerance.
Understanding the difference between cats and dogs:
Cats: The most common causes of diabetes in cats include obesity, pancreatitis and a change in the pancreatic beta cells called amyloidosis. The onset of diabetes is usually middle age.
Dogs: This is most commonly an immune mediated disease with slow destruction of the beta cells. The progression occurs over time and usually 90% of the cells are lost before diabetes occurs. Other causes include genetic predisposition, chronic pancreatitis and medication-induced diabetes.
Breeds that are likely to develop diabetes include German Shepard dogs, Schnauzeers, Beagles, and Poodles. Golden Retrievers and Keshonds are more prone to juvenile diabetes.
Females are three times more likely to develop diabetes than males. Diabetes usually occurs around 6-9 years of age but can start earlier with juvenile diabetes.
What to look for:
Polyuria/Polydpsia (PU?PD): This means excessive urination and excessive thirst. The body eliminates excess blood glucose by filtering it through the kidneys and passing it into the urine. Water must be used to flush this excess glucose out of the body, and this is why you see excessive urine volume in a diabetic. Because so much water is being used to flush the excess glucose out of the body, the animal is thirsty and drinks a lot.
Polyphagia: This means excess hunger. Under these conditions, the body gets signals to start using stored fat and protein as energy sources. A diabetic animal often eats extra food because it is trying to supply its body with additional energy. But the food is not used efficiently, so even though the animal is eating a lot it is still losing weight.
Cataracts: 70% of dogs will develop cataracts in the first year to two years of diabetes. This is rare in cats.
Dropped hocks: Cats may develop a plantigrade stance where they appear to have dropped hind legs. This is directly related to the severity and duration of hyperglycemia. This may or may not improve with treatment.
If your veterinarian suspects that your cat or dog has diabetes, they will need to collect blood for analysis as well as an urine sample. Pets with diabetes also frequently develop urinary tract infections which can make managing the diabetes more difficult.
What is the treatment:
The number one cause of death in diabetic dogs and cats isn't the disease itself, but rather the owner's frustration with the disease. The goals of treatment are to eliminate the clinical signs of diabetes, prevent or slow progression of cataracts, prevent dangerous hypoglycemia, maintaining body weight and prevention of any other illness.
When your pet is diagnosed with diabetes, make sure you and your veterinarian take an appointment to talk about the following topics:
1. How to store insulin
2. How to give insulin
3. What types of food to feed and how often
4. How to recognize signs of hypoglycemia
5. How to react to hypoglycemia
Diet is a big part!
After your cat or dog is diagnosed with diabetes, he or she will need to go to twice-daily meal feeding. The reason for this is to ensure insulin is always given at the same time food is consumed. Your veterinarian will also recommend a specific diet for your pet. Diabetics require a special carbohydrates/fat/protein ratio. There are numerous prescription diets and a few regular brand foods that are appropriate. If you enjoy making your pet's food at home, there are recipes available and your veterinarian should be able to provide you with these.
The dose of insulin that your veterinarian starts your pet on will likely increase over the first year. After starting insulin or changing a dose, blood glucose curves must be obtained to monitor how the glucose levels drop and rise during the day. Your veterinarian will work with you to develop a plan to get your pet controlled. Diabetes is not a simple disease to manage, but once a patient is controlled they can remain well managed for years.
If you have questions or suspect your pet might be diabetic, speak to your veterinarian immediately.
Monday, October 24, 2011
Trick-Or-Treating With Your Pets
It's almost Halloween and this is a fun night for your pet to go out and walk the neighborhood with your family. Here are some tips to help keep your pets safe!
*Make sure everyone can see your dog
Light up collars and reflective materials on your pet are the best way to make sure cars and people can see your dog coming. Most pet stores carry clip on flashing lights that can be attached to the collar also.
*Unfriendly dogs should be left at home
If you know your dog is very protective around strangers or is dog aggressive, please leave him at home. You are putting children, other pets and your dog in danger by taking him in the dark and exposing him to new people and dogs.
*Keep Trick-or-Treat bags out of reach of your dog
Chocolate and candy are great treats for your kids, but not your dog. When walking door-to-door or riding around in a car, make sure the dog cannot reach into a trick-or-treat bag.
*Chose your pet's costume wisely
A mummy is a very cute costume for a Standard Poodle, but if halfway through the night he begins to chew off and swallow parts of the costume, you are going to have a big problem the next day. Pieces of fabric can become trapped in the dog's stomach and not allow anything to pass. A foreign body obstruction requires surgery to remove the material. The same idea is true for costumes with metal pieces which may be fun for the dog to chew on, but don't pass easily through the GI tract if swallowed.
*Choose the right event for your pets to attend
Halloween is a fun night to be shared with friends, family and our four-legged friends. Please choose to bring them to events where they will be well watched. With the distractions of candy, costumes and new people, it is not uncommon for dogs to become lost on Halloween. If your dog does not like new people at the door or the sound of the doorbell, a crate may be the best place for your pet while kids are trick-or-treating. Also, keep in mind that haunted trails where a dog may become spooked or become aggressive out of fear are not appropriate.
I hope these tips help everyone and their dogs have a fun and safe Halloween!
Tuesday, October 18, 2011
Separation Anxiety- Explained and Discussed
Coming home to a shredded pillow or scratches on the front door might be more than a nuisance, it could be the first sign that your dog is suffering from a medical condition called Separation Anxiety.
What is Separation Anxiety?
Separation anxiety is a physiologic panic attack, outside of your dog's control. It is caused by a hyper-attachment to an individual or other pet. The attack may occur when a pet is left alone or when a particular person leaves. Have you ever been so worried and upset over something you can barely function? This is how your dog feels during separation anxiety.
Do many dogs have Separation Anxiety?
Statistics show that about 20% of dogs are affected. That means one in every 5 dogs you see at the dog park has some degree of separation anxiety.
Why does a dog develop Separation Anxiety?
We often do not know the cause of separation anxiety in dogs and often times they may be anxious in other ways as well. The anxiety related to separation may have started after being boarded at a kennel, after moving to a new home or after a tragic event. Other anxious behaviors include storm phobia or extreme fear of vacuum cleaners.
How do I know if my dog has Separation Anxiety?
Signs can be very mild or very severe. Often times owner's won't know the dog has separation anxiety until the neighbors mention that the dog howls consistently while they are gone. In more severe cases, dogs may destroy furniture or even chew through drywall. For some pets, you don't have to leave to see signs of anxiety. If you can't go to the bathroom without your pet following behind you, you're seeing separation anxiety! A dog that is blocking the door or rushing an owner to the dog is also displaying signs of separation anxiety.
What are the treatments for Separation Anxiety?
Separation anxiety is not a behavioral problem but a physiologic reaction instead. Successful treatment involves teaching the dog to relax when you leave the house, making sure to pair your departure and with pleasurable experiences. It is important to eliminate punishment due to the anxiety. Often times treatment will involve medications to help avoid the panic attack. Some cases involve short term medications while others will require long term medications.
What can you do right now to help with the anxiety?
Your veterinarian may recommend some medications to start your dog on for long term use, but these can take up to 4 weeks to show an effect. In the mean time you can start by hiding all of the triggers that signal your departure to your dog. These often include your purse, keys, or wallet. My dogs know which bag I take when I leave for work and will react differently than when I only pick up my keys. Do not confine your dog to a crate to control anxiety, unless they are already used to it and are comfortable in the crate. Kongs, irresistible toys that are very durable, are great to give dogs before you leave because it can help make leaving a pleasurable experience. One other thing you can do is ignoring your dog for 5 minutes before you leave and waiting until she calms down when you get home. This will help minimize the difference between when you are staying home and when you are leaving.
Can you cure Separation Anxiety?
It is unlikely that you will ever cure separation anxiety in your dog but you can make the situation less stressful over time. It is important to recognize separation anxiety early and speak to your veterinarian about what you can do.
What is Separation Anxiety?
Separation anxiety is a physiologic panic attack, outside of your dog's control. It is caused by a hyper-attachment to an individual or other pet. The attack may occur when a pet is left alone or when a particular person leaves. Have you ever been so worried and upset over something you can barely function? This is how your dog feels during separation anxiety.
Do many dogs have Separation Anxiety?
Statistics show that about 20% of dogs are affected. That means one in every 5 dogs you see at the dog park has some degree of separation anxiety.
Why does a dog develop Separation Anxiety?
We often do not know the cause of separation anxiety in dogs and often times they may be anxious in other ways as well. The anxiety related to separation may have started after being boarded at a kennel, after moving to a new home or after a tragic event. Other anxious behaviors include storm phobia or extreme fear of vacuum cleaners.
How do I know if my dog has Separation Anxiety?
Signs can be very mild or very severe. Often times owner's won't know the dog has separation anxiety until the neighbors mention that the dog howls consistently while they are gone. In more severe cases, dogs may destroy furniture or even chew through drywall. For some pets, you don't have to leave to see signs of anxiety. If you can't go to the bathroom without your pet following behind you, you're seeing separation anxiety! A dog that is blocking the door or rushing an owner to the dog is also displaying signs of separation anxiety.
What are the treatments for Separation Anxiety?
Separation anxiety is not a behavioral problem but a physiologic reaction instead. Successful treatment involves teaching the dog to relax when you leave the house, making sure to pair your departure and with pleasurable experiences. It is important to eliminate punishment due to the anxiety. Often times treatment will involve medications to help avoid the panic attack. Some cases involve short term medications while others will require long term medications.
What can you do right now to help with the anxiety?
Your veterinarian may recommend some medications to start your dog on for long term use, but these can take up to 4 weeks to show an effect. In the mean time you can start by hiding all of the triggers that signal your departure to your dog. These often include your purse, keys, or wallet. My dogs know which bag I take when I leave for work and will react differently than when I only pick up my keys. Do not confine your dog to a crate to control anxiety, unless they are already used to it and are comfortable in the crate. Kongs, irresistible toys that are very durable, are great to give dogs before you leave because it can help make leaving a pleasurable experience. One other thing you can do is ignoring your dog for 5 minutes before you leave and waiting until she calms down when you get home. This will help minimize the difference between when you are staying home and when you are leaving.
Can you cure Separation Anxiety?
It is unlikely that you will ever cure separation anxiety in your dog but you can make the situation less stressful over time. It is important to recognize separation anxiety early and speak to your veterinarian about what you can do.
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